LEISURE ON THE CHINESE EASTERN RAILWAY: YACHT CLUB AND RACECOURSE AS “OTHER SPACES” OF HARBIN

A''lying Fr. D. Turner's frontier theory and M. Foucault's conce't of heteroto'ic s'aces the author studies “other” s'aces created by Russian railway men and Cossacks in Northern Manchuria in the late 19th – firrst half of the 20th centuries. Particular attpention is 'aid to the organization of leisure in Harbin. Thee article considers two quite interesting s'aces: the yacht club on the bank of the river Sungari and the hi''odrome. Thee choice of these leisure s'aces was based on a number of im'ortant characteristics. Thee 'ur'ose of this study is to analyze the s'aces of the yacht club and the hi''odrome as heteroto'ic s'aces on the frontier territory. Thee author reaches several im'ortant conclusions about the basic 'rinci'les of the basic 'rinci'les of the creation and the functioning of these leisure s'aces. Within these s'aces, many cultural 'rocesses took quite diffeerent forms. Thee article 'rovides numerous 'reviously unknown facts about the develo'ment of yachting and trottping in Harbin.

Журнал Фронтирных Исследований. 2021. No 3 | ISSN: 2500-0225 Фронтир в мировом контексте | Doi: http's://doi.org/10.4653 39/jfs.v6i3.314 Today, the idea of 'aradise does not lose its relevance in the urban conce't of Harbin. Now Harbin continues to com'ete vigorously with China's largest cities. Thee main goal of this rivalry is to elevate itself into a modern metro'olis. According to the Chinese government's develo'ment strategy, the city is ex'anding to the North and South, restoring central areas and reinforcing districts. Thee ultimate goal is to transform Harbin into an urban s'ace with high technology, culture, trade and commerce. At the moment, Harbin is develo'ing on both sides of the Sungari River. Thee restoration of the central areas of the city aims to im'rove its facilities and restore the Euro'ean style of the city .
It is im'ortant to note that one of the firrst railway stations in the Russian Em'ire, located on the Tsarskoye Selo railroad, was designed by railway engineers as a leisure s'ace for aristocrats. A theater, a garden, a 'ublic 'ark with a 'avilion, and a veranda were built into the station's s'ace. Theanks to a 'ermanent musical 'rogram, balls and, later, themed concerts, the station became an im'ortant s'ace in the formation of Russian culture in the 19 th century (Klyuchnikova, 2020).
In this article I will try to show how the heteroto'ic s'aces of the yacht club and the hi''odrome were embedded in the overall natural and cultural landsca'e of Harbin. I also intend to ex'lore the history of these two social institutions. I will studied not only these two 'laces, but also the o'en s'ace of the Sungari River. Additionally, I will also describe the 'erce'tion of seasonal cyclicity and climate in Harbin. Leisure time is always connected with seasonal cyclicity, as it determines the organization of free time and 'eo'le's behavior.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
Before 'roceeding to a direct analysis of the 'roblem stated in the title, I will discuss the methodology and conce'ts a''lied in my research.
Theis study is based on F. J. Turner's frontier theory and M. Foucault's conce't of heteroto'ia. Leisure s'aces in frontier areas are 'redominantly heteroto-'ias. Within these s'aces everything is ordered, there are strict rules and free 'attperns of s'ectator behavior 'rescribed by the authorities. By heteroto'ia M. Foucault understood the "other" as a s'ecial s'ace that includes many s'aces. According to him, s'aces are initially uto'ias, and then turn into heteroto'ias. Foucault distinguished six 'rinci'les of heteroto'ic s'aces on the basis of which various loci (locus) can be analyzed (Foucault, 1986, ''. 22-27). Heteroto'ias take diffeerent forms; there is no single form of heteroto'ia that is com'letely universal (Foucault, 2006, '. 197). M. Foucault believed that it is 'ossible to describe 'laces of tem'orary recreation -cafes, cinemas, beaches, etc., through a cluster of relations ('. 195).

MAIN PART
Thee Russian historian Sergey. N. Yakushenkov writes that as a result of cross-cultural contacts a new cultural reality is formed, which combines the features of all actors of the frontier 'rocess. However, this new reality develo's according to its own laws dictated by the frontier situation as a whole. Thee new cultural reality is the result of combining several cultural landsca'es within a single natural landsca'e (Yakushenkov, 2019, '.17).
At the end of the XIX century, Russian railroad workers built a new im'erial city in undevelo'ed Northern Manchuria -Harbin. Theis city was 'ositioned as an extraterritorial ex'eriment in Asia and was 'art of Russian im'erial strategy. It is im'ortant to note that the territory where the CER was laid and Harbin was built was leased from China as a result of Russian-Chinese negotiations in 1896 (Lukoyanov, 2008, '. 100). Theis hub of the CEL was to become the economic and 'olitical center of "Asian Russia" in the Far East. Thee Russian government had several o'inions on the issue of annexing the leased territory of Northern Manchuria to the Russian Em'ire. At the end of the XIX century, a com'letely diffeerent model of im'erial s'ace began to be created in Manchuria, which could not be found in other territories.
Transferring s'ace to undevelo'ed territory, incor'orating and imitating the s'aces of the metro'olis is a colonial manifestation of 'ower, involving the subjugation of new territory. It is no coincidence that the British 'lanted their gardens at embassies and other state institutions in the colonial territories. And the Ja'anese, during the formation of Manchukuo, 'lanted a large number of cherry trees in Harbin along the banks of the river, which runs in the Nangang district and crosses the wide Gogol Street (See Thee Ja'anese ma ' of Harbin, 1939). Today, these gardens no longer exist and in their 'lace 'aved embankments have been built in Harbin. Thee Nangang area (南岗区, Nangang -South Bank of the Sungari River) was home to gardens, 'arks, government officces, the famous Yamato Hotel, residences of wealthy merchants and officcials (Denison, E. & Ren, G., 2016, '. 83).
Harbinians incor'orated innovations and s'aces from all over the world -Paris, London, St. Petersburg, Beijing, Odessa, Shanghai, New York, San Francisco. Harbin was not accidentally formed as a city of yachts, races and new im'erial gardens, where sakura and birch trees grew in the beer and wine gardens, with Chinese verandas and gazebos for relaxing, all kinds of restaurants and kitchens and much more. In diffeerent 'eriods, the s'aces of the city were rearranged in the 'rocess of changing 'ower. While the Russian Em'ire was new to Manchuria and formed a 'olitical center there, Ja'an was able to subjugate the territory tem'orarily but fully. In the end, China, with the su''ort of the Soviet Union in the mid-20th century, made the territory an inde'endent and uncontested 'ro'erty of China. Today, the frontier city of Harbin remains a hybrid, its urban landsca'e renders a clear evidence.
I believe that certain leisure forms are an indicator of im'erial s'ace. Thee Racecourse and Yacht Club in Harbin are 'redominantly male s'aces, as they were originally conceived as 'laces of com'etition and rivalry. Harbin initially was formed, 'erceived, manifested as a masculine s'ace for the comfortable life and work of Russian railway workers. In this city, new 'laces were created for modern and comfortable living in a multicultural way. Thee yacht club and the racecourse are a diffeerent awareness of leisure and a new model of social s'ace in the early XX century. Theese s'aces were not formed for ordinary workers, but for the technocratic elite and officcers. In these s'aces we can trace the established symbols of aristocracy -com'etition involving the use of a horse or yacht, rivalry, battple, and communication. In many cultures, the sea and rivers are im'ortant loci (locus) for leisure activities. Boat com'etitions (including boat building) are common leisure activities in Southeast Asia. Sword firghting, archery, and various forms of com'etition have been 'o'ular male entertainment for the Chinese aristocracy for several centuries. And many 're-colonial entertainments among the common 'eo'le, such as kite fluying, cockfirghting, bamboo stilt racing, and 'laying takrou, required s'ecial skills and dexterity Wallach, J., 2017 '. 110).
During the colonial 'eriod, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, the develo'ment of technology and communications, the strengthening of communication between the metro'olis and the colonies, and the borrowing of cultures, many as'ects of Euro'ean life (including leisure 'ractices) became increasingly common in Asia. Thee firrst yacht club in Southeast Asia was founded by British colonists in Singa'ore in 1826. Thee British also established 'arks and botanical gardens in Singa'ore in 1859. Today, these gardens and the yacht club in Singa'ore are tourist attpractions ('. 112).
In Russian culture, it is enough to recall a well-known activity of the Russian tsars in history -falconry. Initially, hunting was not an entertainment among the common 'o'ulation, but was 'ositioned as a way to earn money and survive. Theere is no doubt that Russian culture incor'orated Euro'ean leisure activities through the elites. For exam'le, Peter the Great's famous boat rides on the Yauza River or canoeing by Nikolai II stemmed from the Romanov's fascination with Euro'ean culture 2 . It should not be forgottpen that elites, like other members of society, are subject to historically-determined disci'lining discourses. In the history of Russia, as in many other countries, initially the elite itself learned to organize leisure time -to test and it and to ex'erience it, and subsequently to form free time and s'aces for its own entertainment within the framework of the culture to which the elite adhered in this or that historical 'eriod. Part of the 'o'ulation followed the exam'le of the authorities, and the dissenting 'o'ulation was sooner or later forced to ado't new ways and forms of leisure, which over time turned into the norm.
Thee natural landsca'e of Manchuria largely determined the leisure activities of the 'o'ulation. Thee s'ace of the Sungari River contributed to the idea of organizing a yacht club on the shore. Thee Sungari, as the most 'rominent 'art of Harbin's urban s'ace, was described by Harbiners as 'art of urban life from various 'oints of view, such as trans'ortation, water su''ly or the threat of fluooding, recreation, etc. Thee section of the Sungari from Harbin to the confluuence of the Mudanjiang River is described as mountainous and level. "Native river. Not ours, not Russian, yellow, muddy -but so dear and close to our hearts -we were born and grew up with it From my early childhood, in summer, in the heat, there were no more desirable words than: "Let's go to Sungari River"... Wide, treacherous, but tempting, cool, relentlessly carrying its yellow waters to some unknown place, to unknown distance Under the descent to the shore there are boats. Theey are painted in interesting colors, white, green and red Or maybe a powerboat? It smells so comfortably of gasoline " (Polytechnic, 1975, '. 105). "And always good you were, Sungari! In the early morning calm, in grayish tones, motionless, smelling of sharp river dampness, quiet, peaceful. Boats rushing down the river In the gray haze, a railroad bridge, almost a kilometer long; a train running across it" (Chemodakova, 1978, '. 237). "Thee Sungari is also nice in the daytime, sunny and hot. Slightly warm, yellowish-golden in the sun and dark Thee hustle and bustle on the embankment: the squealing of children, the laughter of young people -summer vacation. Fishermen with filshing rods somewhere down on the shore; Chinese women rinsing their laundry" (Chemodakova, 1978, '. 237). Thee Sungari was also a favorite 'lace for firshing enthusiasts (Zhernakov, 1969(Zhernakov, -1979 found in the 'ages of 'eriodicals, e.g. "Thee best outboard Johnson motors in the store of Skoblin and Co" (Harbin Herald, Thee Yacht Club 're'ares for the season, 1930, '. 9); "All for firshing: rods, reels, lines, hooks Norwegian, English, German" (Rubezh, All for Fishing, 1929, '. 21), etc.
Yacht Club Harbin was founded in 1912 on the banks of the Sungari River near the Wharf with the aim of develo'ing water and other s'orts (Ternavsky, 1926, '. 135). Theis s'ace was built in a hybrid style, incor'orating elements of Euro'ean and Asian architecture, but has been continually rebuilt over time with modern technology and lighting (Thee Yamato Hotel & Thee Yacht Club in Harbin, 1940, '. 342).
Thee waterfront was the most visited 'lace in Harbin. Thee yacht club was designed as a s'ecial recreation area and was the main entertainment center on the banks of the Sungari (Harbin's urban heritage, 2015, '. 147). I believe that originally the yacht club was designed and built in the style Art Nouveau. Thee Russian historian S. S. Levoshko notes that in Russian urban 'lanning at the turn of the 19 th -20 th centuries, the main function of architecture was the transformation of life (Levoshkо, 2003, '. 62). Art Nouveau is characterized by o'en and glazed rooms (verandas, conservatories), linking the main room with the environment (Levoshko, 2003, '. 72). In the yacht club, two s'aces were juxta'osed -natural and artifircial, club's style modern in the technical sense.
Thee s'ace of the yacht club was modeled not only by Russian engineers, but also by the Chinese, and afteer the formation of Manchukuo-Di-Go by the Ja'anese. In 1926 the Yacht Club committpee was headed by General Ma Zongjun, engineer A. A. Eysymont, and Commander V. I. Korzin (Ternavsky, 1926, '. 135). A news'a'er announcement in 1941 stated that the Yacht Club restaurant was recruiting em'loyees of Russian and Manchurian nationalities for the 'ositions of doorman, cook, waiter, and dishwasher (Harbin time, Announcement in view of the u'coming o'ening for the summer season, 1941, '. 4). Thee restaurant served the entire 'o'ulation of Harbin, and the chefs worked according to the same 'rinci'les as the famous kitchen of Harbin "Yamato" Hotel (Thee Yamato Hotel & Thee Yacht Club in Harbin, 1940, '. 342).
Steamshi's arriving on the banks of the Sungari with the firrst builders and construction materials, unloaded on the stretch of coast between the future Kitayskaya Street and Yacht Club. At the beginning of the 20 th century the Pier (Pristan') was a swam'y 'lace (Tairov, 1974, '. 37), which was gradually built u' and im'roved. "Pristan' -merchants and dark dealers. Thee pubs, brothels, cards, brothels, opium parlors", -wrote the author Alymov S. Ya. in 1928 (See (Krotova, 2019, '. 760). Merchants and all kinds of businessmen built warehouses, hotels, trading houses and residential areas along the banks of the Sungari River, since the coastal 'iers, where barges and steamshi's were unloaded, were nearby. Engineers insisted on building new neighborhoods above the shoreline (Kradin, 2001, '. 48). Railroad Engineers and architects, accounting for fluoods, were not 'revented by the Sungari bank from building the yacht club on 'iles above the shore. Thee Wharf District (Pristan') was develo'ed on the 'rivate initiative of Harbin residents. It was the bank of the Sungari River that was the center of attpraction and leisure locus since the beginning of Harbin's develo'ment and in subsequent years, des'ite the fluoods and the com'lexity of the natural landsca'e. In 1930 it was decided to move the veranda of the yacht club to a new 'lace, because the beach under the veranda was re'eatedly washed away during fluoods (Harbin Herald, Yacht Club, 1930, '. 5). Thee beach was rebuilt several times, as were many other buildings on the shore. Some s'aces were moved to "'o'lavki" 1 to reduce their vulnerability to natural conditions 2 .
By the 1930s and 1940s, the Sungari embankment had already been im'roved by new features such as various restaurants and a yacht club (Melikhov, 2003, '. 356). In 1940, the yacht club had its own garden, restaurant and night bar with the best food in Harbin. On the banks of the Sungari River along the yacht club grew a variety of 'alm trees. Thee cuisine in the yacht club restaurant was constantly im'roving and ex'anding. Every Saturday on the veranda of the yacht club, the most select society of Harbin gathered (Rubezh, Palms on the banks of the Sungari. Yacht club summer oasis of gourmets in Harbin, 1940, '. 16);(Rubezh, Summer Harbin, 1942, '. 6-7). "If you needed to treat someone or to conduct a banquet or just a business meeting, there could be no betteer place than the "Yacht Club" restaurant on the right bank of the Sungari River with a beautiful view of the river, the waterfront " (Kozlovsky, Notes on the life of Harbin, 1979, '. 231).
"Passing through the revolving door, we enter into [in meeting members -A. M.] 'arlor studded with white and red beach 'arasols reminiscent of the Riviera. In a settping enhanced by unique architectural design chattping grou's are seen who gaze with admiration at the scenery along the river bank. Thee lawn 'lanted here and there with 'alms, with white benches, and wellcared for fluower beds is a 'leasant 'lace to stroll. In the hall of the main building of the Yacht Club, with its s'arkling chandeliers an atmos'here of wholesome freshness 'ervades. On the stage an ultra-modern orchestra trained to the highest 'itch 'ours forth a melodious 'rofusion of 'leasant light music.  Club in Harbin, 1940, '. 343).
Ice drifte on the Sungari ended in mid-A'ril (Ternavsky, 1926, '. 23). Every s'ring the yacht club was constantly renovated for the new season. In 1930 the summer verandas were re'aired and enlarged, the beach was 'ut in order, new cabins were installed, a new cabin with a warm shower for vacationers was built. Every s'ring the yacht club was constantly renovated for the new season. Each veranda was 'rotected from the rain. Thee re'airs and 're'aration of the yachts, boats, and launches were com'leted in the s'ring. Thee officcial o'ening of the Yacht club for the new season took 'lace in mid-May, and the o'ening of the beach at the end of May (Harbin Herald, Yacht Club 're'ares for the season, 1930, '. 6). On the o'ening day of the Yacht club, the fluag was raised in the garden and on the veranda, which symbolized the beginning of its officcial activities in the new year: the restaurant was o'ened and a banquet was organized for the members of the yacht club (Harbin Herald, Yacht Club. Thee season is o 'ened, 1930, '. 4). In addition to recreational activities sailing, rowing, track and fireld, and firshing sections were arranged (Harbin Herald, Yacht Club. Thee Resolution of S'orts Commission, 1930, '. 6). Periodically, the yacht club hosted a ball on the veranda, and arranged motor races, a rowboat 'arade, evening boat rides, large garden strolls and other sorts of entertainment (Harbin Herald, Yacht Club Ball, 1930, '. 4-5). Crowds of Harbinians gathered on the embankment from Artillery Street to the Yacht Club to watch the yacht and motorboat races (Harbin Herald, Sungari Motorboat Com'etition, 1930, '. 5). In Harbin, many organizations emerged around basic institutions and 'rivate com'anies: s'orts clubs, 'olitical 'arties, libraries, charitable societies, social clubs, and more. Com'etitions of sailing yachts and boats were organized between Harbin 'rivate com'anies. For exam'le, "Churin & Co. " had its own yachts, s'orts grounds, and ofteen com'eted on the Sungari (Melikhov, 2003, '. 149). At the end of October the summer com'etition season on the Sungari River officcially ended (Harbin Herald, In the Yacht Club 1930, '. 4).
S'aces and seasonal cycling are constantly interconnected, as seasonality determines the functioning of this s'ace. S'ring, summer and winter seasons determined the o'eration of the yacht club, as this s'ace was embedded in the natural landsca'e and its location was determined by the Sungari River. Sungari. "Thee hot Manchurian summer, with its torrid and stifloingly humid breath, with its lush vegetation and unforgetteable beauty of nature As in previous years the bright sun, the invigorating air and the warm river waters " (Rubezh, Sun, water and air -the joys of summer, 1945, ''. 10-11). "Summer. Heat, and stuffinness, and thunderstorms, sometimes with hail. But there was an escape from the heat -the wide, full-floowing, lovely Sungari River Cool water, passing boats, low and double-decked, roaring engines, the smell of gasoline, the wave coming from the boats Willows, wormwood and other grasses, stairs of summer houses going straight down into the water" (Chemodakova, 1978, '. 237). Summer tem'eratures in Harbin 'eaked at 29℃ and 30℃ and averaged 19-24℃ (Ternavsky, 1926, ''. 20-21). "In the summer, especially on weekends, when the river was literally floooded with a stream of vacationers, the crossing was also carried out by large doubledeck boats of the Harbin Yacht Club, which for some reason were called "pampus"" -V. G. Melikhov recalled, a Russian historian who lived in Harbin from 1930 to 1946 (Melikhov, 2003, '. 368). "Spring with its smell of fresh sticky leaves, grass, bird cherry, lilac, and the thaw that preceded all this luxury afteer the harsh winter. Thee unique warm air, the thin ice in the mornings on puddles on which even though you don't want to, but you are sure to step to hear how it crunches the green atteire of trees, the "porridge" on them, eagerly eaten by Chinese children, and even later the down that floies from the slightest wind from the poplars" (Chemodakova, 1978, ''. 236-237).
Since the yacht club was founded on the Sungari River, annual sailing com'etitions have been held in the summer 'eriod. For exam'le, in 1942 14 vessels 'artici'ated in the races: seven yachts of the firrst category, firve of the second category and two boats. "Thee strong wind blowing from the lefte bank allowed the boats not to maneuver, but to go one tack from one buoy to another". Thee firrst-class yacht "Tege", which com'leted the route in 36 minutes, was the winner of the Kio-Wa-Kai 1 Cham'ionshi' Cu' for three years. Anton Lavrinenko's yacht "Mermaid" (On the waves of the Sungari. Harbin cham'ionshi' yacht races, 1942, '. 34). won the cu'. In addition to yachting, rowing and sailing were actively develo'ed. Every year in the summer a swim of 3 km was organized down the river from the settplement of Chinhae to the site of the yacht club (Com'etition at the Yacht Club, 1930, '. 5). an eleven-year-old boy, engaged in the children's section of the Harbin Bicycle Society. A water sports department was splintered off from that society for rowing and sailing. Theen a yacht club with a roadstead, where boats and yachts were located, was built near it by the CER. And on the lefte bank the stadium was tripled. Theere was also a hangar with racing boats. Theere were also jogging paths and a diving tower 5 meters high" (Ablamsky, 1998, '. 219).
Yachting as an o'tion of active recreation on the Sungari River was also 'o'ular during the winter season. Engineer B. Kozlovsky writes in his article: "In addition to skating down the slo'es, fans of sailing enjoyed sailing buoys on the ice. Theis construction was a triangular wooden frame with decking, which was 'ut on skates: the front two skates were tightly attpached to the two sides of the triangle base, and the third one was 'ut at the to' of the triangle, and it rotated in the bearing and served as steering. Sails and masts from summer yachts and boats were set and fastened in the center of gravity of the triangle… Unfortunately, the width on the Sungari in the area of Harbin did not exceed ¾ kilometer, and therefore there was not enough s'ace for this s'ort… In a strong wind they were sailing on the ice cover at a s'eed of 70 km 'er hour" (Kozlowski, 1979, '. 230). Theis exam'le shows that des'ite the harsh winters in Manchuria with severe frost and wind, the Harbins successfully organized leisure s'aces on the Sungari in any season of the year.
"Thee Harbin winter, though harsh, had its charms and brought many pleasures and entertainment outdoors, whether it was an ice rink, a stadium, or the frozen Sungari. On the Sungari, nimble businessmen built tall artifilcial slides on the lefte bank, poured water over them, cleared a path on the snow-covered river, and set up twist-off s at the end of the path. Theey rented skids by the hour. Thee sleds were manageable, of varying sizes and the number of seats" (Kozlowski, 1979, '. 230). At the beginning of November the Sungari River froze over (Ternavsky, 1926, '. 23), the ice layer reached 3 feet thick, and the firrst snow fell in November (Pozdnev, 1897, '. 162). Winter tem'eratures in Harbin ranged from -2℃ to -24℃ (Ternavsky, 1926, ''. 20-21).
Thee Yacht Club and the Sungari River. Thee Sungari remained a recreational center in winter, around which new s'aces were created for all kinds of entertainment. Thee entire 'o'ulation visited this area. In addition to the s'ace of the Sungari River, the city was fluooded with 'rivate skating rinks at schools, 'rivate houses with extensive yards, teplushki 1 , kiosks. In winter, one of the most 'o'ular forms of entertainment was skating at masked carnivals. Skiing was not develo'ed in Harbin, because there were no mountains in the immediate vicinity of the city, and on the outskirts, where the s'ort could be develo'ed, one could firnd the Hongkhuz 1 (Kozlowski, 1979, '. 230).
In 1936, A. U'shinsky described winter entertainment in Harbin in the magazine Rubezh (Frontière): "Thee Sungari is very popular with the people of Harbin. When it gets a littele warmer afteer a harsh January, the people of Harbin come to the river to see what it looks like in winter clothes, to take a ride on the high-speed pull-push boats, and most importantly, to ride dizzyingly down the ice slides, And then, having ridden and laughed enough and gained an appetite in the fresh air, enjoy a shot of vodka with dumplings or juicy pancakes at the restaurant "Grandpa the winemaker" or 'Stop-Signal'" 2 (See (Kozlowski, 1979, '. 230)).
Petrenko A. in his lettper (1994) describes his stay in Harbin: "In January we were in Harbin for ten days -we went out to "get some air". We stayed at hotel in the former Police Street in the vicinity of the yacht club, which keeps its original form. Theere is an ice slide, but without the reverse. Full of sledding, not the push-pull type, but on horseback We ate fried yams, tahoods, sticky candies: in general, I remembered my childhood and youth" (Petrenko, 1995, '. 93).
It is im'ortant to note that since the transition of CER to the Soviet-Chinese government (1924)(1925) in everyday life of leading Soviet workers of consulate, trade mission, administration of CER and other Soviet institutions the service to "Bolshevik ideals" were successfully combined with quite bourgeois ways of life and circle of interests. Luxury mansions with servants, yachts, horse-breeding, restaurants became the norm of life for most of the Soviet nomenclature in Harbin (Pisarebskaya, 2000, '. 61).
1 Hongkhuz (in Russian: хунхузы -armed bandits), who lived in the forests of Manchuria, 'osed as Chinese fur tra''ers. Theey were 'art of the community and continued to 'lunder for a long time. "In the great mountain forests the Baron ofteen encountered outlaw gangs of horrible Hungkhuz, but they always 'roved to be very good-natured, com'liant. For the most 'art these gangs consist of 'eo'le who did not get along with society in one way or another, -wrote F. Nansen. -And the Baron believes that many of them were firrst engaged in illegal gold mining, ie, sought and found in these remote 'laces along the rivers of gold sand and secretly washed it without 'aying anything to the government. As they gradually climbed dee'er and dee'er, they firnally, for lack of food, turned to robbery and took in various other vagabonds and criminals who, for one reason or another, were attpracted by this free life" (Nansen, 1969, '. 224). Thee Hungkhuzes were not solely outlaws; they included gardeners, gardeners, hunters, firshermen, etc. (Nansen, 1969, '. 226). Theey conducted their activities in fortifired cam's, in the forest wilds, high in the mountains, during the s'ring and all summer until the onset of the snows. Thee Hungkhuz dis'ersed in advance of winter, dividing their summer earnings in various directions, and were 'eaceful workers or rentiers until the beginning of s'ring (Nansen, 1969, '. 225). 2 In the winter in the Zaton district, the restaurants "Grandfather Winemaker" and "Sto' Signal" were the only loci where many Harbiners gathered, music 'layed, and kitchens worked (Kozlowski, 1979, '. 230

TROTTING HARBIN OR RUNNING ON THE SUNGARI PLATEAU
Horseback riding was considered very 'restigious, and riding lessons have been 'o'ular for centuries. Horse racing is not an English invention but it was globalized through British colonization. Theere are many diffeerent equestrian com'etitions in history, such as chariot races in ancient Greece and Rome or races in the wild ste''es of Mongolia (Lemon, 2008, ''. 2-3). Similar ty'es of com'etitions can be found in many cultures. Thee conce't of hi''odrome s'ace created in ancient Greece 'enetrated very quickly into various societies in the seventeenth century. Horse racing was a s'ort that could be easily organized by British officcers in the colonies where a diffeerent culture 'revailed. By the end of this century, English racehorses and Englishstyle horse racing were common in Euro'e, Asia, India, North and South Africa, Australasia, and the two American continents (Lemon, 2008, '. 5). For exam'le, in the large Ja'anese 'ort city of Yokohama, the area where the British 1 lived in the 1860s, horse racing was held. Even today Ja'an has one of the most influuential horse racing industries in the world, sha'ed by the English model (Lemon, 2008, ''. 6-7).
In Tianjin, as in Yokohama, the British were actively engaged in horse racing and horse breeding, combining this hobby with the 'romotion of their com'anies in the local market. Colonel G. V. Enborisov, a Menshevik Cossack in the Russian army, described a meeting with the Russian wife of an Englishman, Peters, who had a mansion near the racecourse in Tianjin: " Reception room, striking surroundings, fillm-worthy, canaries, parrots, comfort, smartly dressed servants, fruit, wine, cigars, etc.. Mr. Peters, plays a great role not only in town aff airs, but also in the shipping company, hippodrome and other enterprises, which undoubtedly need people; and their estate, or rather castle, is near the hippodrome, surrounded by a huge garden -park and outbuildings Leaving the castle, I looked around it, and involuntarily recalled the Great Russia" (Yenborisov, 2014, '. 183).
If the s'ace of the Harbin Yacht Club emerges at the initiative of the railway workers, the s'ace of the racecourse was created at the suggestion of the Russian Cossacks. It cannot be said that the Harbin Hi''odrome was built exclusively according to the English model, because Russian Cossacks, railroad workers, officcers, as well as Chinese, Ja'anese, and Euro'eans took 'art in the creation of this s'ace. In 1910 in Harbin a military racing association was established with six horse regiments of the Zaamursky region of the Se'arate Cor's of Border Guards. "Our cherished dream has come true thanks to our District Chief Lieutenant General Chichagov and his Chief of Staff , Major General Volodchenko, these cavalrymen are great lovers of horse sport we unfortunately do not have good offincer horses in the District and it is diffincult to get them here. I am sure we will get them from Russia, thanks to the care of our founders, and we will also get the racecourse of the former Harbin Racecourse Association. Thee filrst races will take place on May 6" (Poto, Military Race Society in the Far East, 1910, '. 415).
Thee railroad link between Harbin and Vladivostok took 'lace in 1901 (Krasnov, 1903, '. 65). From that moment the "iron horse" became the main symbol of the conquest of the vast ex'anses of Siberia and the Far East instead of the Cossack horse and Cossacks. "I confess, at that time it pained me to realize that the Cossacks were becoming obsolete and that the time was not far off when the Cossacks would be abolished, just as the streltzys 1 , hussars, lancers and many others were abolished And again I heard expressions -Cossacks have lived out their time and now there are no people with such mastery around their horses", -the Russian general P. N. Krasnov wrote in 1901(Krasnov, 1903. Thee com'etitions at the Harbin Hi''odrome were an o''ortunity for many Cossacks to firt into a new s'ace and to consolidate their cultural heritage in the memory of Russian society in a new territory. One of the firrst im'ressions of Manchuria among the Russians who came to build the railroad was the stunted Mongolian horses 2 of the local 'o'ulation. In turn, the Manchus marveled at the friskiness of the Cossack guards' horses and their obedience to their masters. Bringing horses from Russia was one of the most im'ortant things the builders of the CEL did to establish their way of life 3 . Theese horses were intended for construction managers, their beauty and agility were admired by the local 'o'ulation (Zentka, 1998, '. 224). Thee assistant chief of CEL section Moskovitin G. S. wrote in his lettper in 1899: "Theere is only one pleasure -it is riding, each of us has a riding horse and here when we roam several people together we send our horses to gallop and floy along ... I have a very expensive horse, a young 1 Streltsy (in Russian: стрельцы) were the units of Russian firrearm infantry from the 16th to the early 18th centuries and also a social stratum, from which 'ersonnel for Streltsy troo's were traditionally recruited. Theey are also collectively known as streletskoye voysko (in Russian: стрелецкое войско). Theese infantry troo's reinforced feudal levy horsemen or 'omestnoye voysko (in Russian: поместное войско). 2 Russian General Krasnov P. N. noted that "the Mongol horse is not nimble. It can do 100 versts (1066,9 meters) in a day, but not 60 in firve hours. It is not fastidious for fodder, but on bad fodder it is weak, it is shallow… and soon it is difficcult to work on it" (Krasnov, 1903 '. 275). 3 At the end of the 19th century, Kuban, Don and Mongol horses could be found in Northern Manchuria (Krasnov, 1903, '. 64).  (Archival firle,25,(3)(4)(5).
Russian officcers and Cossacks have always sought to ride only thoroughbred horses and com'lete their regiments with such stallions.
Thee higher was the status of the officcer, the higher was the origin of the stallion (Ya'himovich, 1910, '. 244). For exam'le, a thoroughbred racehorse is considered "English breed" only if it has been bred under the direction and su'ervision of several generations of Englishmen in England (Lemon, 2008, '. 4). Thee Cossack trottper, unlike the "working" horses, was ke't in s'ecial conditions, just like any other racehorse, in a well-equi''ed room and was much bettper fed and not harnessed to trans'ort cargo (Kochetov, 2017, '. 38). Thee trottpers of the border guards in Northern Manchuria were mainly battple horses, 're'ared for military action and difficcult climatic conditions. It is no coincidence that it was the Cossacks who were very successful in com'etitions at the Harbin racecourse.
Thee Russian army in Manchuria also used Mongolian horses in cases when the regiment lacked funds and could not im'ort and renew trottpers from Russia. Thee Trans-Amur Regiment of the Se'arate Border Guard Cor's, stationed in Harbin, used Transbaikalian and Mongolian horses (Poto, 1910, ''. 37-38).
Thee races in Harbin were held as early as 1906, even before the construction of the hi''odrome began. Sometimes they were organized to raise funds for the Harbin Charitable Society (Bugs and bounces, 1906, '. 1). In 1909 the Society for the Encouragement of Horse-Breeding was established and a hi''odrome was built at 48 Gogolevskaya Street, in the Modjagou district (Ternavsky, 1926, '. 194). Thee racecourse included various s'aces -the cafe "Hi''odrome", grandstands with carved wooden decorations, a restaurantrotunda with a colonnade, a brass band, a track and a bell at the start. Thee racecourse became a 'lace not only for fans' gambling conversations, but also for business meetings and acquaintances (Zentka, 1998, ''. 224-225).
During this 'eriod of time, s'ort for the Russians was associated 'rimarily with horses. Riding a horse "with a breeze", traversing Russian territories on it was 'art of national culture for many centuries. Theere is no doubt that in Russian culture the 'roductive 'ower of the horse, is interconnected with the 'roductive 'ower of the man. In Harbin, ex'ensive trotters 'ulling carriages, baby carriages and sleighs began to a''ear more and more ofteen -the so-called "outings". At these "outings" one could see road managers and wealthy 'eo'le accom'anied by ladies in boas and long dresses, with umbrellas and extravagant hats. During the 'eriod of the commercial boom, the im'ortation of horses from Russia was 'ut on a "wide footing", and wealthy Chinese started driving such carriages too. Horse breeders and jockeys began to bring in Orlov trottpers of 'ure blood with a known 'edigree (Zentka, 1998, '. 224). In the 19th century the desire of jockeys to trans'ort their horses between continents was nothing new. Theese journeys were very tedious, dangerous, and ex'ensive, but these factors were not an obstacle, as a large wager could com'ensate for the trans'ortation (Lemon, 2008, '. 8).
Thee American sociologist Veblen R. 'oints out that with riding horses the case is almost the same as with dogs. Theey are generally ex'ensive, wasteful and useless for 'roductive 'ur'oses. Thee use of a horse, which would, if it were 'roductive, increase the welfare of society or make 'eo'le's lives easier, is a demonstration of strength and ease of movement, satisfying the aesthetic tastes of society. Thee economic 'rofirtability of a riding horse lies largely in its effeectiveness as a means of com'etition: when a horse owner causes their horse to overtake their neighbor's horse, it gives this individual a sense of conquest and domination (Veblen, 1984, '. 165). Kee'ing a racehorse is a low-'rofirt affeair, in most cases wasteful, but it is an honorable activity, it enhances the owner's re'utation, and satisfires the need for gambling.
Thee fat cats of the city and the road, merchants and industrialists considered it 'restigious to exhibit their horses at the com'etition. News-'a'er articles re'orted on the winners and their owners. Mutual congratulations were ex'ressed in officces and at banquets, and arguments of fans were heard everywhere.
Later there were boarding stables with trainers who came from Russia. Some wealthy 'eo'le had several horses each. Horse breeders also came along. One of the firrst horse breeders was the road manager L. D. Khorvat. Thee Chinese also began to buy horses -those were the em'loyees of the Road Administration, and merchants -they began to "cheer" for their horses with the inherent 'assion of the Chinese nation. Thee results of the horses' s'eed were com'ared with the results of the famous horses on the racecourse of Russia. Thee names of the riders and horse owners could be heard among the audience, and the stands fell silent at the start.
In addition to traditional horse races, Cossack-style horse riding, "Dzhigitovka" 1 , was very 'o'ular among Harbin residents and foreigners (Zentka, 1998, '. 225 Afteer the Russian Civil War, some Cossack riders earned money touring and 'erforming in Euro'e, Asia, and North and South America (Bogutsky, 2012, '. 45). Theus, on the initiative of the Russian Cossacks in Manchuria, a new s'orting com'etition a''eared. Some Cossacks traveled around the world with their 'erformances. In 1923, Cossacks demonstrated their art in the Phili''ines and Ja'an. Afteer reorganization of Security guard of CEL the Cossacks who stayed in Harbin bought horses for themselves to earn money as carriage drivers and for work at forest concessions. Some went to work in 'rivate firrms and government institutions. Ofteen Cossacks were hired as jockeys (Lavrentyev, 1943, '. 84).
Thee 'rogram of the races consisted of several stages: races for lower ranks of frontier guards and Chinese soldiers; jigging of Cossacks and lower ranks of frontier guards; running handica'; com'etitions for saddle-hunters on horses of all breeds exce't thoroughbreds; gentlemen race (Bugs and bounces, 1906, '. 1). Thee racecourse, like many other s'aces in Harbin, was a 'lace of communication between Russians and Chinese.
It is noteworthy that the racecourse was firrst built outside the city (behind the Modiagou River), when the Modiagou area had not yet been designed (Ma', Harbin City Plan, 1911), but a few years afteer the growth of Harbin, a garden city 'roject (the Central garden and its outskirts) was laid on this site (Ma', City Plan of Harbin and Fujadian, 1931), (Ma', Diagram of the Harbin Knot, 1922) and as a result, afteer 1933 the racecourse was moved further south to the area of Old Harbin behind Hos'ital Town, i.e. the racecourse was 'ositioned as a suburban s'ace that was built on the outskirts of the city (Ma', General 'lan of Harbin, 1938), (Ma', Thee Ja'anese ma ' of Harbin, 1939), (Ma', Plan of the Great Harbin City, 1933). Thee hi''odrome was 'robably 'lanned to be included in the overall urban landsca'e, but the real situation forced to move this s'ace to the outskirts of the city.
Thee racecourse s'ace was rebuilt several times (Koyirenko N.;Hongwei Yang;Ivanova, А., 2015, '. 157), and was transferred to another location. Thee racecourse business develo'ed and existed under all regimes until 1949. Thee Ja'anese during the occu'ation of Manchuria in 1931 built a new racecourse with reinforced concrete stands. Theey began to breed an im'roved breed of horses by crossing local small horses with large ones and testing them at the racecourse. By 1945, only the Euro'ean 'o'ulation in Harbin was interested in horse breeding.

CONCLUSION
It is indicative that the heteroto'ic s'aces of the Yyacht club and the Racecourse offeered a new way of life in Manchuria and ex'ressed the idea of forming a new human being. Within these s'aces, many cultural 'rocesses took quite diffeerent forms. Theese two social institutions were formed by two 'rofessional communities -railway engineers and Cossacks of the CEL Border Guard.
Thee yacht club and the racecourse are heteroto'ic s'aces because the ideas of modeling these 'laces were borrowed from Russian, Chinese, British, American and other cultures. Any heteroto'y im'lies the 'resence and concentration of a 'lurality of cultures in one 'lace. As a rule, heteroto'y can a''ear in any culture.
Thee s'aces of the racecourse and the yacht club have clearly functioned as recreational s'aces in the 'rocess of building and develo'ing Harbin society for several decades. Des'ite the variability of leisure s'aces in 'ublic discourse, a number of functions are assigned to these s'aces in any society in diffeerent eras. In the 'rocess of this study, I have identifired three functions: communicative, reactive, and competitive. Thee racecourse and the yacht club were clearly "other s'aces" in relation to the ordinary leisure establishments of Harbin, but these two s'aces were interconnected with other locations of the city -streets, the waterfront, a'artment buildings, etc. Theey formed a com'letely diffeerent city and urban life, which in the firrst half of the twentieth century diffeered signifircantly from everyday life in Russian and Chinese cities.
For many years the yacht club was 'erceived by Harbin residents and tourists as the best 'lace for recreation. It combined several s'aces -shore, beach, 'romenade, Sungari River, veranda, garden, restaurant, s'orts grounds, etc. Thee racecourse s'ace though it was created 'rimarily for s'ectacles also included many diffeerent s'aces. In turn, these interior s'aces also incor'orated many diffeerent s'aces: entrances and exits, stairs, 'aths, shrub alleys, kiosks, dressing rooms, seating areas, kitchens, cashiers, sailing 'iers, 'arking lots, yachts, boats, courts, stables, observation decks, and many more. In leisure s'aces, as in many others, time is very regulated. Heterochrony in these 'laces will diffeer de'ending on the function of the s'ace, cultural characteristics, frontier situation, seasonal cyclicality, decisions of the ruling elites, and many others.
Thee Yacht Club was 'rimarily an o'en s'ace for the entire 'o'ulation of Harbin -the waterfront and beach were accessible to all. Thee yacht club's restaurant also suggested o'enness, but offeered a limited number of seats. Theere were no bans on entering these s'aces. Both the Yacht Club and the racecourse had s'aces that suggested accommodation for the elite. Thee racecourse was 'ositioned more as an enclosed s'ace with strict rulesthe access to the fireld was limited, the grandstands were strictly organized. As a rule, the river was an o'en s'ace, while the racecourse was a confirned and closed 'lace.